Casing on new alternator TR7 set up on left. Dolomite set up on right. Changing is simple to do, simply remove the plastic end cover, then remove the 3 long bolts, and carefully rotate aluminium casing, taking care not to seperate the Ali casings from the black part of alternator.
Pic shows casing rotated and larger distance tube shown on right for TR7 mounting, failure to swap the distance tube over will result in casing becoming distorted when bottom pivot bolts are tightened, thus internals will foul casing.
That was last weekends job, this weekends was to get Gills Blue FHC trailered to the barn out of the weather. Not a staight forward job as the battery was flat and would not charge up with battery charger, I will get it tested but sure its knackered, more money to be spent, after swapping batteries over from my 7, the next problem was the solonoid was stuck, a quick rocking in gear sorted this. With it started, I then found the clutch was stuck, quick start up in gear and all OK, then the rear brakes where badly stuck, I had to take a hide mallet to drums, then rock back and forth to free them, Finally I noticed the carpets where wet inside, seems as though water runs down door seals, collects in rear corner on top of seal, then spills into footwell, so had to pull out carpets and felt sound deadening to dry out, will investigate later. My mate then turned up with a less than standard car trailer and some planks as the proper trailer was hemmed in by a lorry with keys not handy, getting it on was a bit dodgy but we got it to the barn ok.
Finally got the dammed thing on the trailer.